5km in Bangkok

About 5 months ago I decided to improve my fitness and have since set my sights on the Bangkok marathon at the end of the year. Until today my exercise regime has taken place in a small but satisfactory gym on the 2nd floor of my apartment building. Starting with the treadmill I usually aim for a 4-5km run which is made a hell of a lot easier with a rotating fan, air conditioning, a cold water bottle and a sweat towel. Today I ventured outside and had none of these added extras which I really had taken for granted.

There is a park not far from our apartment blocks which is ideal for running; well, ideal as you can get for Bangkok anyway. To get there, according to my pedometer, it takes a little under 1.5km through residential streets and across a highway. Instead of walking to the park I decided to jog which turned out to be a 1.5km obstacle course. First, there is little or no footpath so I had to run on the road. This is generally ok but Bangkok traffic is never quiet and taxis, tuk tuks, cars and motorbikes zoom through the streets. Being at the bottom of the food chain means it is my responsibility to get out of the way. Where there is a footpath it is imperative to always look down for holes, cracks or loose bits of cement which are determined to roll your ankle.

As I turned the first corner a mangy mutt took an interest in my jogging and followed me. Dogs are, to my knowledge, placid beasts in Bangkok but I was unsettled to have this one tagging closely behind. Having just finished a Stephen King novel, one where a mangy mutt not dissimilar to this one snacked on a human, my nerves were a little on edge. Images of his dirty fangs digging into my calf and an evening spent at hospital fighting off rabies were too much to handle so I legged it. I didn’t look back until the next corner. The mutt had lost interest and I was already getting tired.

After, I passed food stalls with people digging in to an afternoon noodle soup, then a bus stop where the masses waited to go home. I weaved through a motorbike taxi rank at the front of the skytrain and past people selling coffee. Young workers from a construction site, dirty and tired, smiled and joked as I ran past. Two umbrellas, on either side of the footpath, made a kind of tent which was transformed into a kitchen cooking up Saturday evening street food. Chicken and fish were being grilled over hot coals and I got a good mouthful of the thick smoke as I ducked through. Burning chili sent a brief sting to my eyes and nose but it was the next smell that got me. The stench of stale piss was a bit too much, and occupied a long area on the side of the road where taxi drivers stop to relieve themselves. The smell clung to the inside of my nostrils as I tried to cough it away. It was absolutely putrid. I legged it again until I reached the overpass that crossed the highway. Here I watched the busy afternoon traffic below as the approaching gray clouds grinned down.

Once on the other side of the highway it was near the entrance to the park which has a great running area with 1.8km per lap. It is peaceful and relaxing with an artificial lake in the middle. There were no dogs, taxis, food stalls or stale piss so I could run in peace. After two laps it was definitely feeling more difficult than the treadmill but if I want to run the marathon it has to be outside so outside I will go. I managed a 5km run which included a 1.5km obstacle course which is a good start, I think, to running in Bangkok. I will try and get out here a few times a week.

Email from a student

I have this very funny Japanese student, his name is Sakata. He's elem1, which means his grasp of English is very rudimentary, but hey he tries hard and has such a fun, outgoing personality that I usually end up laughing my head off in our classes together, every Saturday afternoon. He's so lovely: he repeats everything I say to practise his pronunciation which is hilarious (can you imagine? I ask him a question and he just repeats it, like:

-"Are you OK Sakata?"

-"mmm...You ok Sakata?"

Hilarious.

He even brings me back presents when he goes on trips.

All in all, one of my favourite students ever.

Last Saturday was our last class together, so I gave him my email address and we said goodbye. 2 hours later, here's the what I received from him. It needs no comments, I think:

Dear Ms.Celine Ferrer

My name is Sakata!
Do you remember?

Thank you very much for teaching English to me.

I want to speak with various people by using English more.

Therefore, help of Celine will be asked for again.

I very much tired today….

Best regards.

Sakata.

Samutprakarn Crocodile Farm

After the floating market our taxi driver took us to a crocodile farm and zoo. I was a bit worried because zoo's in Asia have a reputation for being terrible in terms of animal well being and my experience already in Bangkok and also in Hanoi has not been good.



They sell themselves as the world's largest crocodile farm with over 100,000 crocodiles. Well, we definitely didn't see close to that amount but there were a lot and you got a birds eye view as you peered down on them as they eagerly waited food. For a small fee you could feed them meat from a stick.



There was a crocodile show where a few Thais put their hand and later head inside the crocodiles mouth. They survived, in tact, and overall it was quite fun.



The rest of the zoo was home to tigers, bears, camels, elephants, monkeys and many other animals. I would not say the zoo is a horror show but it is easy to see the animals are not at their best. Many did not look healthy and I can't stand it when they are tied up. An elephant was tied up giving it little room to move and a big tiger was chained around its neck with no room to move so tourists could go and sit and have their photo taken. A monkey wearing shorts, which seems funny, was enough for us to call it a day.



The flip side to the lax standards means you can really get up close to the animals. I can't recall ever being so close to a hippo where you could literally put your hand in it's mouth; although that would not be a very bright idea.

It was an educational experience.

Damnoen Saduak Floating Market

Last Friday was a public holiday for Buddhist Lent day, so we both had a rare day off and decided to get out of the city. We opted for the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market which is about 80km south-west of Bangkok. With both of us having a severe dislike for tours we found a taxi driver to take us there for 1,000 baht. We left at 6am.



It really wasn't what I expected. Yes, it was a floating market, but a market which operates solely for tourists. I had thought it would be a local food market but instead they sold hats, bags, t-shirts and all that other stuff I can find throughout Bangkok. The selling point - you do it on a boat. So, for me it was not that great and did not start well when the lady tried to charge us 2,500 baht for 3 people. She obviously does this to everyone that does not come as part of a tour; rambling something about gas prices. In the end we paid 1,000 which I believe is around the going rate.



The trip lasted about an hour with the boat stopping repeatedly as ladies tried to sell us things. It was nice to grab a coffee at a small market stand and chat as we cruised around but next time I would something authentic. My fault for not doing any proper research.

Highlight of the morning was the noodle soup we had at a restaurant on the side of the road. Our taxi driver showed us how to make a superb sauce using the condiments on hand; a mixture of chili, sugar and fish sauce. Delicious!

Birthday in Bangkok

Khao San Road

So, birthday 29 was spent in Bangkok. I had to teach all day which is not the ideal setting for a birthday but it was quite relaxed and enjoyable. After work, I received a decent stash of pressies from Celine before we took a taxi to Khao San Road. Celine booked a hotel there so we didn't have to worry about heading back across the city later that night. Also, one of Celine's friends from Paris arrived to spend some time in Thailand so the party numbers were significantly boosted to 3.

Presents

The birthday was spent enjoying the best of what Khao San Road has to offer which is shopping, food, massages and bars. When a trendy T-shirt is only a couple of bucks you can't really complain. And complain I didn't; especially when Celine bought me a few to add to my already vast present collection.

Food involved a yellow curry for a main and a Phad Thai for dessert. I contemplated washing that down with a tray of fried bugs but decided to leave that to a more adventurous day.

After dinner, we opted for a foot massage on the street watching the world pass by. It was relaxing and damn good. At $3 it was just another reason to smile. Having a good time in Bangkok can really be cheap.

Bangkok massage

In and around the shopping, food and massage we did a bit of bar hopping before settling on a place where we chatted until the early hours. A great birthday in Bangkok.

Golden Mountain

Golden Mountain

Bangkok is a city of temples. I have visited a few since arriving but when my brother Chris, who knows Bangkok well, said the Golden Mountain or Wak Saket was one of his favourite places in the city I had to go and check it out. It didn't disappoint.

Golden Mountain Views

Sitting on top of a hill with 360 degree views of the city it is both scenic and peaceful. You can reach the top via spiraling stairs passing a massage parlour on the way. There is a lot of greenery at the bottom where you can stop and watch turtles resting by a pond. The walk, despite the stairs, is easy and the view well worth it. There was a mixture of Thais and foreigners enjoying the view but not enough to get in your way.

Golden Mountain

There were two foreigners meditating in the hot sun, taking full advantage of the serene setting. Already a bit burnt, I opted for a shady part next to one of the pillars while peering over Bangkok; a cool breeze passing by.


Golden Mountain Views


The temple is open from 8-5.30pm.


Golden Mountain Bells

Massage on Golden Mountain

My week in Bangkok: Friday

The rain continues

Friday is the closest thing I have to a weekend at the moment with only one class at 5.30pm. I teach all day Saturday and Sunday. Last Friday Celine and I decided to explore around the Saphan Taksin skytrain area. This is right on the river and is where we go if we want to grab a ferry up to the old town and is also the place where many of the river tours start from. We hadn't spent any time walking around the area, just jumping off the train and heading straight for the ferry. There is a big street called Charoen Krung Street that seemed quite busy, so exploring the street was our intention for the day.

Fruit on Charoen Krung Road

As we arrived it started to bucket down and without an umbrella we were soon getting wet. We decided to press on. On the left are some big shopping centers as well as street food stands. Not long after we were temporarily covered from the rain as we weaved along thin bits of pavement, protected in sections by the shops awnings or in others a tied up piece of tarp. Regardless, it was a welcome reprieve from the continuing downpour. On our left were rows of small shops, selling fruit, curries and what-not using half the pavement in the process. We continued on for a while but soon realised the rain was not slowing so looked for the nearest cafe. The rain didn't stop so after a coffee we decided to go back to the shopping centers and call off the days walk. After a bit of browsing we found some good sales and both bought a new pair of running shoes. The day wasn't a complete failure.

Later, Celine had to go to work and took a ferry from Saphan Taskin. This is one of the places she really enjoys going to in Bangkok because she feels like she is on holiday. For her, sitting and waiting for the ferry to arrive, watching other boats pass by and catching the ferry gives her a relaxed, "holiday" type feel. Her other two places like this in Bangkok is our pool and Khao San Road. The pool is great. Even on our busiest days we can drop home for a quick 20 minute swim. The pool, on the top floor of our apartment block, and only seconds from our room is usually empty and offers great views. It relaxes you instantly so I would have to agree with Celine. Khao San Road has a different feel to anywhere else in the city and with all the travelers from all around the world it is hard not to feel on holiday.

The rain stopped in the afternoon and with blue skies approaching I spent some time
by the pool. After, I got ready and took my motorbike, train and bus trip to work. Even with a downpour there are plenty of things to keep you occupied in Bangkok.

I made Hoisin duck!!

Grilled marinated Hoisin duck, tofu and noodle. I love my new cook book!

I made Wontons!!!

So buying a cook book and doing a monstrous food shopping last week have paid off. I made wontons! Wontons are probably my very favourite, I can have any kind, at any time of the day.
Who knew I could actually create them from scratch? I'm so proud, even though let's face it, they're very easy to make.

Here's a step by step:







Cooking is like saving money or trying to lose weight... I mean it took me over an hour to make the wontons, and it took Dan 3 minutes to eat them.

My week in Bangkok: Thursday

Election signs

Thursday is a very early start. I am out the door at 5.45am for a 7am class however getting up early in Bangkok is not a problem for me. In fact, I really enjoy it. The motorbike taxis are starting to wake up to the day and it doesn't usually take long to find one riding past. The first train is at 5.55am which I take with a few other early risers. Often, as I arrive at the station the security lady is opening the roller doors. I like having the station virtually to myself. Street dogs lay at the entrance; lethargic lumps uninterested in anything around them. They are in the same position when I come back. Dogs in general here are extremely placid which is very different to Vietnam. Perhaps it is the heat or maybe the fact that people aren't staring at them with hungry eyes. Vietnam is not a good place to be a dog.

Street dogs resting

After the train I jump on a local bus and it is a breeze compared to 30-45 minutes later when the roads start to fill. Zooming along I notice sign after sign for the upcoming election; photos of candidates from all parties tied to trees, posts, telephone boxes and anything that lines the cities roads. This form of advertising can be found throughout the city. The topic of the election is at times discussed in class and is becoming more topical with only a few days to go. The election in on Sunday the 3rd.

Yellow shirts in Silom

The election is the first since the unrest that happened last year which resulted in many people killed when the red shirts clashed with the army. I have not had a chance to really understand the situation and get different perspectives depending on who I talk to but what I do know is that Thaksin, the previous prime minister, was kicked out in a coup back in 2006. He then went into exile and is wanted on corruption charges. I think he is now living in Dubai. He owned Manchester City football club at one point. His supporters are the red shirts. His allies won an election after the coup but for legal reasons it was not allowed and the democratic party (the other guys) came to power. Their supporters are the yellow shirts. There have been various degrees of political unrest since, especially last year during the Songkran holiday.

With Thaskin in exile his younger sister is now the leader of the opposition. So, with only a few days to go the election is obviously the hot topic. The front page of the Bangkok post has had articles about the election since we arrived. Around the Sukhumvit area I have seen support for the democratic party (the yellow shirts) with a number of marches through the streets and trucks driving the streets with messages sent out over load speakers. Sometimes local politicians stand in the back waving as they pass. No one seems to know what will happen after the election but I guess that depends on the result. We will see on Sunday.

After an early afternoon class I went home. Instead of taking the motorbike taxis I walked. There are always plenty of things happening on Soi 22 making it an enjoyable walk home. Many small bars line the street but most are empty in the afternoon. They start to fill in the evening. There are also a bunch of massage parlors; some, I am sure, as fronts for other more intimate activities. Street food is always available; things like fruit, meat on a stick and corn. There are at least 4 7-elevens, travel shops, hairdressers, restaurants, local stores, hotels and hostels among many others so there is plenty to keep you busy.

Thursday evening was spent at home eating chicken stir-fry and watching the tennis.