An interesting afternoon at Wat Chonprathan Rangsarit

Relaxing by the pond

On our recent trip to Laos to renew our visa we met a very friendly Russian. Evgeny is from St Petersburg and is currently in Thailand on one year education visa. He is around 50 years old. He was a backstroke champion in his younger years and came second at the European championships.

We arranged to meet up when we both returned to Bangkok so he could show us the temple where he was staying. Celine and I took a taxi out to the Chonprathan Rangsarit temple but due to language barriers we were not entirely sure what to expect. The ‘temple’, as Evgeny explained, is in Nonthaburi district and was not so much a temple as a spacious compound where Buddhist monks live. There were areas for the monks to pray and also an area for cremations at the front near the main road. There seems to be cremations happening continuously. Evgeny was living in one of the tiny freestanding buildings that were occupied by the monks. He was the only foreigner. He had met a monk in St Petersburg who was living and working in the city at one of universities. I don’t know all the details but the monk offered his place to Evgeny while he was in Russia. Evgeny happily accepted and was now living in and around this peaceful relaxing world in a Buddhist compound in an outer district of Bangkok.


Monks walking


The house was a very small bedroom with an even smaller bathroom. Evgeny slept on the floor on a thin mattress. There was a small desk and two big bookshelves filled with Buddhist literature. Apart from that there were a few pictures and a small fridge. Evgeny had someone come each day to deliver food and wash his clothes. All this was free. I don’t know who this person was but Evgeny said he was like a ‘slave’ (Surely a communication breakdown). I was assured by Evgeny that the guy was not doing this against his will, instead, just an added perk of life on the compound. We all sat on the floor, covering the best part of the house, and enjoyed a wonderful Thai lunch.

Evgeny and Celine


Joining the living quarters is a shaded park, with tables and benches, which surrounds a peaceful pond where young monks stroll past in their orange robes. One Thai monk passed and smiled at us before saying “How ya going”? A little taken aback we started talking to him. He introduced himself as Mike and he spoke great English. He had just arrived at the compound after 3 years in Brisbane. He was obviously new to the monk thing because he went to shake Celine’s hand before abruptly pulling back saying in perfect Aussie accent “I can’t touch you”. Monks are not allowed to touch women.

Evgeny showed us around the rest of the compound before we headed back home. It was great to visit an area rarely visited by foreigners and see Evgeny, have lunch inside a monk’s house and meet Mike the monk. An interesting afternoon.

Khlong Toey Market

Meat Market

Khlong Toey Market is a very big market with fresh meat, seafood, vegetables, fruit and a few other bits and pieces. And I mean fresh. At the front, just off Rama 4, are cages of live animals, mainly ducks and chickens. Entering the market I walked over a small canal which put Hanoi’s pollution to shame. It was full of all kinds of filth with disease looking determined to jump out of the water and bite you. The smell was putrid but I can’t be sure of the source. It could have been the canal or the animal’s shit or maybe the chopping of meat and fish that was happening all around me. I guess it was a combination of all three. My stomach was not prepared for this onslaught of smells so early in the morning. There was a definite gag at one point so I pinched my nose and took in a deep breath. I really didn’t want to vomit in front of everyone.

Polluted canal

There was kind of an animal assembly line where they originate out the front before moving to cages further in the market. The live animals sit on the bottom level and the dead, plucked, gutted ready to consume ones sit on the top; only a short distance away. Seeing this scene has put me off chicken for a week or so, until I repress the memory, and confirmed the fact that killing animals is really not my thing.

Cooking a duck

Caged ducks

The aisles are quite thin and on either side a small stalls of meat and fish. The workers are busy cutting, chopping, killing, moving, selling and talking making it a lively place. The different meats sit on a table or hang from hooks, a ratty umbrella protecting them from the heat. The market seemed to be a little more full-on than in Hanoi. Fish lay in tubs without any water; chickens are killed next to their buddies; big chunks of meat, including pigs heads hang at face level as you walk by. It is an interesting experience.

Fruit for sale

The long aisles go on for a while so it was a welcome relief to find the fruit and vegetable section; a bigger section I think than the meat. Here you can find cheap fruit and vegetables and the setting is much better – unless of course you prefer watching fish chopped up in mass numbers. It was a good walk up and down the aisles seeing what that had for sale; a good place to come back for the weekly shopping.
Despite the unsettled stomach I was very happy to go and visit the market. I really enjoy seeing the locals going about their normal lives and this was certainly an authentic Thai experience; I didn’t see any other foreigners.

Gold fish for sale

How to get there: Take the MRT to Khlong Toei and walk East on Rama 4 Road. It is on your right just after the intersection with Ratchadphisek Road.

Vietnamese Vientiane

Vientiane architecture


Patouxai — Vientiane’s Arc de Triomphe

Back to our visa run story, we took a night bus from Pattaya to Vientiane, the capital of Laos. I was really excited to go to Laos, even if just for a couple of days, I've only heard good things about Laos and their people.

Indeed, the Laotians are lovely good spirited people - though we find that's a pretty common theme in South-East Asia, so no surprise there.

What striked me the most in Laos is its uncanny resemblance with Vietnam. Same food stalls, same cityscape, same colours and general atmosphere. I wasn't too surprised to hear a few words of Vietnamese in the midst of the huge Talat Sao morning market.
Vientiane's air was purer and its streets wider, with actual side walks most of the time, which is more that I can say about Hanoi. But all in all, very similar feel.

We saw the Pha That Luang, the symbol of Laos; a gold-covered beautiful stupa:

Pha That Luang

In the morning I went to the Talat Sao market and even though there were some amazing bargains there, I didn't buy anything: we're poor right now.

In the evening, we had a few beers on the Mekong river with some of our visa-run friends, which was a memorable experience as Laos proved not as tame as Vietnam when it comes to people asking you if you want opium (never happened in two years in Vietnam) and girls asking you (well, Dan, not me) if you want boom boom. Again, if this happens in Vietnam and I've heard it does, it's a hell of a lot more discreet and hidden.

This said, the girls in question are ultra aware that the tourist population of Vientiane are full of people coming from Thailand to renew their visa. And Thailand tourists bring their reputation with them...

So, yes, Vientiane is quiet, relaxing, quite small for a capital city and hold many similarities to its Eastern neighbour Hanoi. Though come to think of it, nobody asked me why I didn't have a baby yet, so there's your difference with Vietnam.




The visa run itself was pretty gruesome: you have to queue for hours at the border, each way, but getting help from a visa run company was definitely a good idea: they organise everything for you and save you a lot of trouble. That we will do again, if we ever need to do this kind of visa run in the future.

Pattaya

Ladyboys in Pattaya

Pattaya Beach

Getting long term visas to stay in Thailand is a complicated process and a bit of a headache. Well, we had to get our three months tourist visa this week, and for that we had to leave the country. There are many visa run companies here that are happy to help you with the whole affair. We had a choice of leaving from Bangkok to Cambodia, or from Bangkok to Laos. Because we haven't had a chance to see anything but Bangkok so far (and Krabi and Tonsai, but that was last year, before we came to live here) I thought it would be a good idea to check out the nearest beach town: Pattaya. The idea was to prospect and see if that was a suitable place to take friends and family when they come visit in Bangkok.

Turns out it's not, really. Pattaya is big and busy, and it's the sex tourism capital of Thailand.

Pattaya Gogo Bars

Everywhere you can find gogo bars, pole dancing bars and very lightly dressed lady boys looking for a good time. There are also countless odd couples - old men with cute Thai girls. It's insane, and it would be ok to take friends and family there really, but might as well push another hour or two and take them to Koh Samet or Koh Chang. Thai islands, that's the stuff!

We did have a good time there, there was some relaxing on the beach and a few nice beers in the sun. But I wouldn't recommend Pattaya, it's not for everyone...

Walking Jomtien beach

Songkran continues

Songkran Waterfight

So it turned out that my Songkran withdrawals didn't last long.

Arriving in Thailand Celine and I got a 30 day on-arrival stamp. With our 30 days coming to an end we had to organise a tourist visa. To do this you need to leave the country so we opted for a trip to Laos. We booked it through a visa-run company, Five Star Visa Runs, which left from Pattaya; a beach town about two hours drive from Bangkok.

Enjoying Songkran

We decided to pack light with only a few pairs of clothes, our computer, camera and a couple of books. Arriving at the bus station in Pattaya it was clear that Songkran hadn't finished and as it turns out different places celebrate the festival on different days; good to know for next year. Jomtien Beach, where we were staying, was celebrating Songkran that day.

We hoped on a tuk tuk, the only available transportation, and took the 10km ride to our hotel. We were sitting ducks; vulnerable and easy prey. Sitting in small trucks parked on the side of the road or standing alongside big tubs of water, locals waited for passing traffic. We were the passing traffic and my bald head seemed to be target number one. Some had buckets of water, others a garden hose and many high powered water guns but regardless the tool the intention was the same and the results successful. Slowing down at the traffic lights improved their hit rate. My pleading smile was met with a cheeky grin and a second later I felt the whack of cold water. This process was repeated every 30 odd seconds. It wasn't long before I was soaked. I wasn't the only target. On the tuk tuk an old Thai lady copped equal abuse and was repeatedly hit from behind with water running through her hair and down her face. She laughed the whole time showing the spirit of Songkran.

Songkran traffic jam

My main concern was our bags. The tuk tuk driver dropped us off pointing in the direction of our hotel. With our backpacks on we walked a short distance while getting bombarded with water. We were in the wrong street. We took refuge in a bar and asked the waitress for directions. Drenched and dancing provocatively to techno beats, in skimpy hot pants and a singlet, she informed us that we were quite a way from our hotel. She offered to organise motorbike taxis for us which we happily accepted. The motorbike taxis turned out to be her who saw no issue in taking both Celine and I, as well as our bags. She was miniature and weighed about 40 kgs but was nonchalant about the task at hand. She grabbed her keys, connected to a well endowed rubber penis, and pushed the bike onto the street. We all piled onto the bike and rode off; her bursting bum cleavage staring up at us. Funny times.

Songkran water fight continues

It was a painful trip through a traffic jam of festivities which saw all of us, including our bags, get more and more wet. Our bags were now in a poor state but we hugged them like one would protect a loved one from gun-fire. The gunfire never stopped. Slowly we made our way to our hotel as the close range attacks continued. Sopping wet and a little demoralised we thanked our little Thai warrior who smiled and rode back into battle.

In the hotel we checked for damages. All our money submerged into a wet lump which I peeled apart slowly, drying each bill with toilet paper. All our clothes were wet. Our books were wet but not destroyed. My passport, which had to be submitted the following day to immigration, was sodden. Pages were stuck together with the ink from stamps running across pages. Having already been told about the issues of presenting a ‘dirty passport,’ it was not looking good for my visa run. The computer and camera were luckily ok.

After a bit of a break we headed outside to enjoy the end of the festival.

Tip of the Day: Check the Songkran dates before you travel. Thais and foreigners alike show no mercy; with or without bags.

Songkran festival in Bangkok

Songkran water festival

The Songkran festival is a three day all in water fight celebrating the traditional Thai New Year. The festival is from April 13-15. I heard about the festival from friends in Hanoi but was surprised at the extent of the celebrations. Thais roam the streets of the city throwing water from buckets or with water guns. Most stand on the side of the road and throw water on each other as well as cars, taxis, motorbikes or pedestrians passing by. Small trucks, loaded with young Thais and tubs of water, drive the streets chucking and receiving water as they go. This is my kind of fun.

Songkran water guns

We opted for Khao San Road which was a good decision. The streets were packed in festival fashion with thousands throwing water and rubbing chalk paste on each other. From midday to around 10pm the fight continues with small bars the only respite to dry off and gather your strengths. Within minutes you are drenched from head to toe and there is absolutely no way of escaping this. Khao San Road area is popular with foreigners who happily join the battle; armed with water guns. Cheeky Thais fill their tubs of water with big chunks of ice - you definitely knew when you got a litre of that water down your back. In and around the water fight is music and dancing giving the place a real festival feel.

Songkran via truck


After 7 hours of throwing water - man it went quickly - we jumped on a motorbike taxi home. With the exception of maybe the running of the bulls in Spain I would have to say it was the coolest festival I have been to. The Thai people really know how to have a good time.



The following day I opted for a subway not far from my house; not wearing my swimming attire. People had packed the streets for the 2nd day of the festival. On either side of the road Thais enthusiastically threw water on traffic as they passed. I was weaponless so I thought maybe the Thais would take pity on me. They didn't. Holding my wallet up in the air I took bucket after bucket of water, some icy cold, from cheeky Thai girls laughing their heads off. One girl at a massage place asked if I wanted a massage. I said no thanks. She took this as a good reason to pour cold water right down my front. She asked again. I smiled and said no thanks. Three of her friends surrounded me hitting me from all angles until I was soaked to the bone. So much for dodging the water. I finally arrived at subway realising that after I ordered I had to go back the way I came.

I loved Songkran and am now suffering withdrawals.

Chao Praya

We took the ferry on the Chao Praya river the other day: we don't have much money right now, so we don't do that many things and a lot of our time is spent at home - though that's not too bad, there's a pond, a swimming pool and a gym at home.

Every day or every other day though, we go and visit somewhere new. Three days ago we spent the morning near the river, walking around and strolling the markets near the piers. I love it there, it's full of life and lots of street food stalls around.

The ferry works like a bus, you get on and pay for your ticket on the boat. There's a connection with the sky train and we live on the sky train line. How cool is that, going home on the ferry? Nice view, wind on your face... a bit better than the London or Paris metros.

That day we stopped at the Grand Palace and went to see the huge reclining Buddha statue. Grand.

A question for the Thais: Part 1?

I really love the trasnport system within Bangkok. At your disposal are fast and convienient trains, which cover a decent part of the city, buses, taxis, motorbike taxis, tuk tuks and small trucks which act as short distance buses. If you are near water there are express boats or for smaller passages, canal boats. Anywhere we want to go there is usually someone or something that will take us; a great relief in a hot and humid city like Bangkok.



What has been interesting to notice is the policy for motorbike taxi travel. These guys, and occassionaly girls, are found throughout the city; often at both sides of a long street (or soi in Thai). They wear colourful vests and are used for short distance travel. My question is why is it such a funny question to ask for a helmet? The riders have helmets, often of very good quality. They also often have helmets attached to their bikes but every time we ask for one they laugh. Some bike don't have them, even though it is the law and every passenger I see is not wearing one; foreigners and locals. It is obviously not normal for the passenger but I guess my question is why?



In Vietnam the law to wear helmets is quite new but every time I took a motorbike taxi the rider gave me a helmet. This made sense to me because after a year and a half in Hanoi I can count a handful of deaths or major injuries that were close to me or my friends. Celine and I both had accidents and if we didn't have helmets on I don't know where we would be today.



Why do riders not encourage people to wear helmets and why do passengers not demand them?

Nightmare on the train

If only you could see her eyes; evil girl deep in her phone

Sitting on the train, coming back from a successful interview, Celine and I were feeling pretty content. We were joking with each other over something unimportant when evil walked in.

Gogo from Kill Bill

A young petite girl moved towards us and when I saw her eyes hairs stood up on the back of my neck. It was eerie and I could feel my eyes widen. She had big, black as night, eyes which penetrated your soul. Celine and I looked at each other unable to speak; our expressions confirming what we had both seen. I would have paid for that feeling at the movies.

scary girl from the Grudge

She didn't look human and decided to sit right next to us. We couldn't look away. At the same time we both whispered GRUDGE. You all must know that movie. Later Celine thought of GoGo in Kill Bill. We tried to get a photo of her eyes but she was deep in her mobile phone finding ways to end the world. I would like to thank that evil one for making my day.

She was wearing contact lenses which I have seen a bit in Bangkok and Vietnam. Sometimes they are very discreet and look nice, other times weird and today down right scary.

Threading

Hair removal is not a topic that I am to familiar with at the best of times so when Celine told me about this threading process I was a little intrigued. Oldish ladies sit on small plastic chairs on the pavement of busy streets in Chinatown; waiting for customers. Next to them are old worn pictures showing the process of threading, laminated and attached to a makeshift stand; advertising their services.




We stopped at one of the ladies and for 50 baht (less than $2) Celine could get her eyebrows done. First they put some powder around your eyebrows. They use a piece of cotton string and criss cross it in a way that plucks the hairs in what looks incredibly painful. As Celine vouched, it is incredibly painful. The process takes a few agonising minutes. I would be stuffed to do that myself and I guess am thankful I don't have to deal with those girly things. Ouch!

That being said, guys do opt for the threading process. Lady boys use them to keep that feminine look.

Chinatown in Bangkok

Chinatown is one of the many sites you can visit in Bangkok. It is a popular choice with Chinese, Thais and foreigners from around the world as they all weave in and out of the thin but overly crowded streets that make up one part of the neighbourhood. Markets line the streets selling pretty much everything. Old worn beach-type umbrellas protect the seller’s wares from the sun (however it’s usually overcast).




Towering above the markets on both sides of the street are older buildings, mainly apartment blocks where electricity cables droop between them like vines in the jungle. We passed all kinds of different foods capturing different smells as we go. We stopped for a noodle soup in a basic restaurant off one of the bigger streets. Egg noodles, pork, wontons and something unknown but otherwise delicious served in a tasty broth for a $1. Awesome.




The bigger streets are not as compact as the markets but are equally congested. Cars, taxis, tuk tuks and buses fill the streets with small sellers lining the pavements. Neon signs cover the streets buildings giving the place a real Chinatown flare.

Chinatown is not far from the river and you can incorporate that into a good days walk. We decided to save that for next time. Also around the area are countless temples and other sites to visit. It is a cool place to explore but can be a bit full on so a good lunch and somewhere to stop for a beer are essential. Luckily we can go back a few times so we don't miss anything.




There are many way to get there but the best for us was to grab the Metro to Hua Lamphong; the last stop on the line. You can change to the Metro line from quite a few of the Sky Train stations. From there you need to walk to the Chinatown gates; a few hundred metres from the station.